Pole building size for lift

[1971demon]

Use Lift Master for your door opener so you won’t need a ceiling mounted motor and track

I did away with both of my ceiling mounted openers...for that very reason

 

[DavidKFla]

I did away with both of my ceiling mounted openers...for that very reason

I have the side mount openers.

 

[Jimmy N.]

You may want to put fixed glass windows up high for better illumination, security and cost.

Yep. I kinda had to argue with the contractor about that one.

While there are windows at normal height in the "office" and "dirty room" (where the mill, lathe, etc. lives) the rest are up high, including the ones in the sectional doors.

That's because I don't need to see out, other people don't need to see in, and I wanted the most possible light to come in. Plenty of skylights, too.

 

[DavidKFla]

Yep. I kinda had to argue with the contractor about that one.

While there are windows at normal height in the "office" and "dirty room" (where the mill, lathe, etc. lives) the rest are up high, including the ones in the sectional doors.

That's because I don't need to see out, other people don't need to see in, and I wanted the most possible light to come in. Plenty of skylights, too.

I missed this when we were designing our house. Now I'm stuck with 1 standard window. Anyone can see right in and I never open it.

 

[Unholy707]

Use Lift Master for your door opener so you won’t need a ceiling mounted motor and track

Al ready have one for home love it

 

[Unholy707]

You may want to put fixed glass windows up high for better illumination, security and cost.

Idk I heard gators can climb 🤔

 

[Jack_Toepfer]

Though I would otherwise highly recommend having all windows and doors in the initial build - it’s a pole barn - adding them after isn’t as intrusive as a residential structure. Because mine was an addition to my house, I had to have everything planned out (and the architect and inspector still screwed me)…
I ran mine off of extension cords for a year… it got me by. My contract was for framing, siding, roof… everything else I did myself. I did all of the site work and concrete with a friend. Electrical and finishes myself… and then put the theater above it.

Why windows and doors should at least be in your plan - this has everything to do with how you’re going to use the space. You need to be able to use the doors 100% of the time… so you can’t “put shit” in front of them. If you’re paying for windows, you should be able to see through them 100% of the time.

Cabinets, tool boxes, workbenches… most of these should have a home in your plan. A home where not only does the thing fit where it needs to, but you can use it as intended when you need to. I have room for my tool boxes… I don’t always have room to open the drawer all of the way and still fit between the box and the vehicle behind me. This is only a problem in the winter when my tractor/snowblower sits by the front door for 5 months. In your plan plop a big rectangle in the middle (with buffer space) and imagine that’s your pride and joy… you don’t want your vice by the car. Maybe you want to use a tool cart and now your big ass box doesn’t need to be near the car either…
If you’re running air… hide the compressor somewhere and soundproof the enclosure. If you’re going to battery… don’t invest into hard air lines and drops every 8’.

If you can afford an attic - do it. That’s where your junk can go. Attic trusses may be 2x as much money but you’ll get your return on it once you start hiding stuff up there. If not an attic a loft or mezzanine would help as well.

My garage is 2 wide 2 deep… and I have a wide door on the front and a standard door on the back, so that I can drive through… and it makes for a hell of a breeze when they’re open. Man doors at opposite corners perform the same function but with less CFM.

Don’t skimp on power, I ran 100amps to my sub panel.
If your grade and location will allow it, consider a center drain and grade the concrete accordingly. I wasn’t allowed to do a drain so I made the floor flat and level… which means the puddles have nowhere to go

 

[1971demon]

I have the side mount openers.

My doors are so light....I just do it by hand...

 

[DavidKFla]

My doors are so light....I just do it by hand...

I like to drive right in.

 

[Jimmy N.]

Idk I heard gators can climb 🤔

They are one reason I abandoned my initial idea about having a more open and airy design, should global warming make those critters eventually come over here. Well, that and snow.

Decided to sacrifice some some of the natural lighting and went with a roof, walls, and higher windows instead.

 

[Unholy707]

Though I would otherwise highly recommend having all windows and doors in the initial build - it’s a pole barn - adding them after isn’t as intrusive as a residential structure. Because mine was an addition to my house, I had to have everything planned out (and the architect and inspector still screwed me)…
I ran mine off of extension cords for a year… it got me by. My contract was for framing, siding, roof… everything else I did myself. I did all of the site work and concrete with a friend. Electrical and finishes myself… and then put the theater above it.

Why windows and doors should at least be in your plan - this has everything to do with how you’re going to use the space. You need to be able to use the doors 100% of the time… so you can’t “put shit” in front of them. If you’re paying for windows, you should be able to see through them 100% of the time.

Cabinets, tool boxes, workbenches… most of these should have a home in your plan. A home where not only does the thing fit where it needs to, but you can use it as intended when you need to. I have room for my tool boxes… I don’t always have room to open the drawer all of the way and still fit between the box and the vehicle behind me. This is only a problem in the winter when my tractor/snowblower sits by the front door for 5 months. In your plan plop a big rectangle in the middle (with buffer space) and imagine that’s your pride and joy… you don’t want your vice by the car. Maybe you want to use a tool cart and now your big ass box doesn’t need to be near the car either…
If you’re running air… hide the compressor somewhere and soundproof the enclosure. If you’re going to battery… don’t invest into hard air lines and drops every 8’.

If you can afford an attic - do it. That’s where your junk can go. Attic trusses may be 2x as much money but you’ll get your return on it once you start hiding stuff up there. If not an attic a loft or mezzanine would help as well.

My garage is 2 wide 2 deep… and I have a wide door on the front and a standard door on the back, so that I can drive through… and it makes for a hell of a breeze when they’re open. Man doors at opposite corners perform the same function but with less CFM.

Don’t skimp on power, I ran 100amps to my sub panel.
If your grade and location will allow it, consider a center drain and grade the concrete accordingly. I wasn’t allowed to do a drain so I made the floor flat and level… which means the puddles have nowhere to go

Lots of great info here thanks for all of the advice. It’s going to be probably one of the biggest investments I’ve made, I’m hoping it also raises property value and makes the property more desireable if I ever decide to sell

 

[DavidKFla]

Though I would otherwise highly recommend having all windows and doors in the initial build - it’s a pole barn - adding them after isn’t as intrusive as a residential structure. Because mine was an addition to my house, I had to have everything planned out (and the architect and inspector still screwed me)…
I ran mine off of extension cords for a year… it got me by. My contract was for framing, siding, roof… everything else I did myself. I did all of the site work and concrete with a friend. Electrical and finishes myself… and then put the theater above it.

Why windows and doors should at least be in your plan - this has everything to do with how you’re going to use the space. You need to be able to use the doors 100% of the time… so you can’t “put shit” in front of them. If you’re paying for windows, you should be able to see through them 100% of the time.

Cabinets, tool boxes, workbenches… most of these should have a home in your plan. A home where not only does the thing fit where it needs to, but you can use it as intended when you need to. I have room for my tool boxes… I don’t always have room to open the drawer all of the way and still fit between the box and the vehicle behind me. This is only a problem in the winter when my tractor/snowblower sits by the front door for 5 months. In your plan plop a big rectangle in the middle (with buffer space) and imagine that’s your pride and joy… you don’t want your vice by the car. Maybe you want to use a tool cart and now your big ass box doesn’t need to be near the car either…
If you’re running air… hide the compressor somewhere and soundproof the enclosure. If you’re going to battery… don’t invest into hard air lines and drops every 8’.

If you can afford an attic - do it. That’s where your junk can go. Attic trusses may be 2x as much money but you’ll get your return on it once you start hiding stuff up there. If not an attic a loft or mezzanine would help as well.

My garage is 2 wide 2 deep… and I have a wide door on the front and a standard door on the back, so that I can drive through… and it makes for a hell of a breeze when they’re open. Man doors at opposite corners perform the same function but with less CFM.

Don’t skimp on power, I ran 100amps to my sub panel.
If your grade and location will allow it, consider a center drain and grade the concrete accordingly. I wasn’t allowed to do a drain so I made the floor flat and level… which means the puddles have nowhere to go

With high water table in FL you should pour your floor falling to garage doors. A floor drain might not be a good idea because of this.

 

[Unholy707]

They are one reason I abandoned my initial idea about having a more open and airy design, should global warming make those critters eventually come over here. Well, that and snow. View attachment 100179

Decided to sacrifice some some of the natural lighting and went with a roof, walls, and higher windows instead. View attachment 100180

Man, now that’s a pole building!

 

[Unholy707]

With high water table in FL you should pour your floor falling to garage doors. A floor drain might not be a good idea because of this.

Yep, luckily where I am the water table is pretty low compared to a lot of the state. I don’t think the drain will work because I don’t have public sewer, nowhere to plumb it to. But everyone on the area is in public water so no need to worry about well issues

 

[DavidKFla]

Yep, luckily where I am the water table is pretty low compared to a lot of the state. I don’t think the drain will work because I don’t have public sewer, nowhere to plumb it to. But everyone on the area is in public water so no need to worry about well issues

You do have some hills up that way.

 

[Unholy707]

You do have some hills up that way.

Yep I happen to be on one haha

 

[Unholy707]

Thanks for all the info guys, definitely given me a lot to think about and consider

 

[Jimmy N.]

Oh, one more thing since this is lift related.

I had them put two 2'x2' "cubes" where the 2-post was going. That had worked out great had the contractor not been one foot off on his drawing of where they are.

It still worked out, but it would've been better if I hadn't drilled into the floor heat tubing before realizing his mistake.

 

[1971demon]

It still worked out, but it would've been better if I hadn't drilled into the floor heat tubing before

Just think how many gators our man David would have in his garage if he had heated floors...his garage would be on the cover of National Geographic

 

[Unholy707]

Just think how many gators our man David would have in his garage if he had heated floors...his garage would be on the cover of National Geographic

Heated floors? Don’t need them in Fl he just needs to keep the doors open and a blow up pool