Picking up a M6 Hellcat

[16GoManGoHC2]

So I’m the way home I got on the back roads and made a few WOT pulls through 5th. Silky smooth shifts the whole time.

Maybe I just need to quit driving the car like a pussy haha.

No doubt it’s a trans that like to be run hard and shifted hard, yes, maybe it’s just the new/used car paranoia. Doesn’t hurt to run it by a dealer and see what warranty options may be available just in case. What’s the temp where your running it? How many miles on it?

 

[AeroF16]

No doubt it’s a trans that like to be run hard and shifted hard, yes, maybe it’s just the new/used car paranoia. Doesn’t hurt to run it by a dealer and see what warranty options may be available just in case. What’s the temp where your running it? How many miles on it?

Yeah maybe some expectation management on my part too.

It’s in the 30s outside but down in the high teens at night and probably same in my garage.

22k miles on it.

 

[1971demon]

Nah, I still love the car. I also really enjoy working on it. Just driving me nuts a little troubleshooting. Whatever it is, I’ll find it and fix it eventually.

I just put about 15 miles on it driving around town. Halfway through, I stopped in a parking lot and did the bleed procedure again, this time with 300 pedal pumps haha.

The car is driving great and shifting great now. Seems like it’s a temp thing. What drives me nuts is others saying that theirs shift flawlessly everytime and always have, so I know it could be better.

You have far more patience than I have..I don't doubt you will get it figured out...still had to feel funny doin 300 pedal pumps...

 

[AeroF16]

You have far more patience than I have..I don't doubt you will get it figured out...still had to feel funny doin 300 pedal pumps...

Ha yeah, the service manual says it could take up to 200 and I’ve read about guys having to go 250+, so why not!

 

[JRabq]

Yeah maybe some expectation management on my part too.

It’s in the 30s outside but down in the high teens at night and probably same in my garage.

22k miles on it.

I wish you were near Albuq, NM and could sample my totally stock M6 at 31k miles.
Start it up, straight out of the garage, 20°-95°, never had any of what you describe. I am no mechanic and never race, but have had manuals all my life. This is a great transmission.
I hope you sort yours out, but I don't think it is an expectation problem.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

In going through my log book last night entering leak down test data and looking back at old date I ran into notes and now know what cured my shifting issue when I first got my 16 cat back in 17, this is in a TSB I think as well. Dry sticky rusty splines on trans input shaft not letting discs move and dragging causing input shaft to keep turning like the clutch wasn’t pushed in all the way. Cure was back the tranny out, wire brush (tooth brush size brush) the old hard grease out of the disc splines in place and off the trans shaft, Lube with Dow Corning 44 Light (which is the Mopar Grease if you buy it from them for 65$) and no more missed and much less crunchy shifts even when cold.

 

[EricG]

In going through my log book last night entering leak down test data and looking back at old date I ran into notes and now know what cured my shifting issue when I first got my 16 cat back in 17, this is in a TSB I think as well. Dry sticky rusty splines on trans input shaft not letting discs move and dragging causing input shaft to keep turning like the clutch wasn’t pushed in all the way. Cure was back the tranny out, wire brush (tooth brush size brush) the old hard grease out of the disc splines in place and off the trans shaft, Lube with Dow Corning 44 Light (which is the Mopar Grease if you buy it from them for 65$) and no more missed and much less crunchy shifts even when cold.

^^^^^^^This!!! This has been a bit of an issue with the TR6060 since the first generation cars, had this problem with my 2012 SRT392

The TR6060 overall is a great manual trans, about as good as you could hope your car comes with.

 

[AeroF16]

In going through my log book last night entering leak down test data and looking back at old date I ran into notes and now know what cured my shifting issue when I first got my 16 cat back in 17, this is in a TSB I think as well. Dry sticky rusty splines on trans input shaft not letting discs move and dragging causing input shaft to keep turning like the clutch wasn’t pushed in all the way. Cure was back the tranny out, wire brush (tooth brush size brush) the old hard grease out of the disc splines in place and off the trans shaft, Lube with Dow Corning 44 Light (which is the Mopar Grease if you buy it from them for 65$) and no more missed and much less crunchy shifts even when cold.

This describes exactly what I am feeling in the clutch/shifts. This is really helpful.

Is this something that would be covered under warranty or should I just do it myself?

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

This describes exactly what I am feeling in the clutch/shifts. This is really helpful.

Is this something that would be covered under warranty or should I just do it myself?

No idea on warranty, maybe you could talk the dealer into doing it first verse replacing the transmission? I did it myself as I really don’t like anyone touching anything I own really, world is too full of hacks in every profession any more.

 

[AeroF16]

No idea on warranty, maybe you could talk the dealer into doing it first verse replacing the transmission? I did it myself as I really don’t like anyone touching anything I own really, world is too full of hacks in every profession any more.

Yeah I’ll go talk to a few next week and see how I feel about it.

Anything else I should do when I’m in there? Thinking pilot bearing, throw out bearing, maybe the clutch and resurface the flywheel just for good measure? I’ll never be running tons of power so I’ll likely just stick with the OEM clutch.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Yeah I’ll go talk to a few next week and see how I feel about it.

Anything else I should do when I’m in there? Thinking pilot bearing, throw out bearing, maybe the clutch and resurface the flywheel just for good measure? I’ll never be running tons of power so I’ll likely just stick with the OEM clutch.

Depends on how rich you are and how much money you wanna throw away LOL throwout bearing would be an easy change while apart it’s only two bolts then you have to bleed it again my suggestion would be bench bleed it before you install it, easy to do, compress it by hand and fill it with brake fluid while slowly releasing it, i large vise works great for such. Me, I just re-lubed the original bearing and it’s quiet as a mouse, you need a needle injector for a grease gun and just shove it in the the side of it and pump some good sticky Grease in it takes care of that. Taking the bell housing clutch and everything else off is gonna cost a bit of labor money, getting the bell off is a more bolts and wires to move. my pilot bearing when I took my transmission out the grease inside it was brand new looking it’s a yellow grease remains tacky wasn’t dried out at all. Myself I would leave everything under the bell housing alone unless there was a shit ton of dust inside it which would signify a lot of clutch wear. I would just clean the spines of the clutch discs and the input shaft, grease it with the proper grease (Dow Corning 44 Light) and put it back together and see how it is. Being that the clutch releases just fine sitting still with no drag I doubt any of the faces are warped on the pressure plate, the center member or flywheel. If you do it yourself you don’t even have to put the trans on the floor just back it up enough to get the throwout bearing off clean the shaft clean the spines of the clutch discs grease it re stable it while it’s aligned and put its Bolts back in and put it all back together and ride.

If you have money to spend by these magnetic plugs for the trans and the Diff $100 +9 dollar shipping gets you all four . I have some ready to ship finally.



Edit-correct spelling and wording errors from voice to text

 

[AeroF16]

View attachment 62617

So this picture is the trans removed from the bellhousing? I was thinking about whether or not the throw out bearing (or whatever we call it) would stay on the input shaft as I separated it from the bellhousing but it appears that won't be an issue.

Drop the exhaust, mark the flanges for alignment and drop the driveshaft, remove the shifter, then separate the trans? Doesn't look like I need to drain the fluid, right?

And where did you get that trans jack, that thing looks sweet? I would like to do this on my quickjack if able, hopefully I'll have the clearance.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

TOB stays on the trans, no need to drain the fluid, not much comes out of the cooler lines when disconnected. Just disconnect DS at the trans and push is off to the side (assuming 1 pc DS) No alignment tool is needed as your not disengaging the disks. Jdd as CK is from Harbor Freight, $99 I think it was, And yes the quick Jack’s will get you high enough to do the job

 

[AeroF16]

TOB stays on the trans, no need to drain the fluid, not much comes out of the cooler lines when disconnected. Just disconnect DS at the trans and push is off to the side (assuming 1 pc DS) No alignment tool is needed as your not disengaging the disks. Jdd as CK is from Harbor Freight, $99 I think it was, And yes the quick Jack’s will get you high enough to do the job

Perfect, easy enough. I might give it a go this weekend. Appreciate all the help.

 

[AeroF16]

Got the trans jack and the grease today, going to do this tomorrow.

The other thing I noticed, just today, is that there is a slight bit of shudder when the clutch engages. I don't notice it at all driving around town, but I did notice it today driving on the highway with many 5-6 and 6-5 shifts due to traffic and what not. It's so minimal that I assume it's normal, especially for a clutch that has to be capable of this much torque.

I've had aftermarket clutches in other vehicles and once made the mistake of buying an unsprung clutch haha, had to slip that thing like crazy after the install just to get it to glaze over enough to be drivable. This is nothing like that, but I can tell it's doing it if I pay attention.

 

[AeroF16]

Got the trans out today. All in all it took me about 5 hours. Could’ve definitely gone faster with a helper. Pretty straightforward job but you gotta have a decent tool selection and definitely a bit of experience.

The input shaft indeed feels like dried up sticky grease. I bought the grease from the dealer yesterday, using the part number from the 2009 star case for this issue. The dealer told me it was the correct grease for what I was wanting to do but it’s definitely not the same as what is on there now or what @16GoManGoHC2 recommended, so I now I’m on the hunt to get another tube of grease. Problem is, I can’t find it in town, so it might be mid next week before I get to it.

Everything looks fine other than the grease. Surprised by how much rust there is but I’m guessing this is from being stored over the Winter and moisture building up.

 

[1971demon]

Got the trans out today. All in all it took me about 5 hours. Could’ve definitely gone faster with a helper. Pretty straightforward job but you gotta have a decent tool selection and definitely a bit of experience.

The input shaft indeed feels like dried up sticky grease. I bought the grease from the dealer yesterday, using the part number from the 2009 star case for this issue. The dealer told me it was the correct grease for what I was wanting to do but it’s definitely not the same as what is on there now or what @16GoManGoHC2 recommended, so I now I’m on the hunt to get another tube of grease. Problem is, I can’t find it in town, so it might be mid next week before I get to it.

Everything looks fine other than the grease. Surprised by how much rust there is but I’m guessing this is from being stored over the Winter and moisture building up.

View attachment 64157
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Probably a North East car..not stored in a heated environment

 

[1971demon]

Got the trans out today. All in all it took me about 5 hours. Could’ve definitely gone faster with a helper. Pretty straightforward job but you gotta have a decent tool selection and definitely a bit of experience.

The input shaft indeed feels like dried up sticky grease. I bought the grease from the dealer yesterday, using the part number from the 2009 star case for this issue. The dealer told me it was the correct grease for what I was wanting to do but it’s definitely not the same as what is on there now or what @16GoManGoHC2 recommended, so I now I’m on the hunt to get another tube of grease. Problem is, I can’t find it in town, so it might be mid next week before I get to it.

Everything looks fine other than the grease. Surprised by how much rust there is but I’m guessing this is from being stored over the Winter and moisture building up.

View attachment 64157
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View attachment 64159

You sue are going through a helluva lotta work

 

[BULL]

Cheap therapy

 

[AeroF16]

Cheap therapy

Definitely something very grounding about putting in a little manual labor. It’s nice to get away from the busy things in life and just take some time to myself out in the garage.

Also very rewarding to tear something down and rebuild it better than before.

And my Son is watching me do it. He’s out there in the garage just hanging out. He doesn’t know it yet but he’s learning how to be a man.