Satera Tuning Rings Of Hell

[Octanewide]

You can run what pulley you are comfortable with but there are no issues with the blower pulleys spinning, it is not pressed on, it screws on. I have heard of a lot of clutched pulleys taking out the snout though

Not talking about screwed on stock pulleys spinning.
IHI and Mopar decided on a clutched setup for a reason. There are literally 10's of thousands of these out there.
Everyone's comfort level is different and I respect that.

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[vortecd]

Not talking about screwed on stock pulleys spinning.
IHI and Mopar decided on a clutched setup for a reason. There are literally 10's of thousands of these out there.
Everyone's comfort level is different and I respect that.

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Guess I don't understand your comment about using a solid pulley "could be on borrowed time" with no proof there is a problem. I have heard way more failures with the clutched pulley then a solid one

I have been running superchargers for nearly 30 years and the Hellcat is the only one I saw with a clutched pulley. I don't see a benefit of it and know someone that has killed a hand full of clutched pullies

Litens may have given them a great deal on pullies. Would be no different then oil. I don't run stock pennzoil either cause never liked their oil. It is who won the contract for oil but doesn't mean it is better then some other offerings

 

[Octanewide]

Guess I don't understand your comment about using a solid pulley "could be on borrowed time" with no proof there is a problem. I have heard way more failures with the clutched pulley then a solid one

I have been running superchargers for nearly 30 years and the Hellcat is the only one I saw with a clutched pulley. I don't see a benefit of it and know someone that has killed a hand full of clutched pullies

Litens may have given them a great deal on pullies. Would be no different then oil. I don't run stock pennzoil either cause never liked their oil. It is who won the contract for oil but doesn't mean it is better then some other offerings

Rotor timing ..
I too have had supercharged cars for at least 30 years and current also have a gen 2 Lightning with a 3.4 Whipple. Like I've said different strokes for different folks ..
What do you think the ratio is between solid hub and clutched Hellcat pulleys out there? 1/100, 1/1000

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[Speedy!]

The IHI supercharger was designed around a decoupler pulley. It's what I use and I'd never go with a non decoupler personally. The failures I've seen with decouplers were from really high RPM. If you wanna do 7,000 RPM with a 10% lower then maybe a static pulley is the answer, but better have other spare parts on hand for the supercharger if that's the case.

The last GT500 used a Litens decoupler pulley as well and they're on things like alternators too.

If you go to a different supercharger that didn't originally come with a decoupler there's no reason to go to one IMO.

That's my .02.

 

[2ndgen]

^^^ this.
The rotors are kept in time by a mere press fitting of the rear cogs--held by a single bolt.
Without a clutched pulley every single time you lift off the throttle it's trying to unscrew that bolt.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

You can run what pulley you are comfortable with but there are no issues with the blower pulleys spinning, it is not pressed on, it screws on. I have heard of a lot of clutched pulleys taking out the snout though

I think he’s talking about the gear end. Both gears are just held on the ends of the rotor shafts by 10 mm bolts, no keys, no splines, just like the crank pulley is on the crank shaft that most everyone pins. And worse, the faster, heavier rotor is only held in place by a ring about the size of a man’s wedding band, not tapered either, just face to face clamp load from a 10 mm bolt with 55 lbs of tq on it. It’s actually how the 2 rotors are timed to each other. Set even gap both sides of male to female rotors and lock the bolt down on the male rotor, it’s left hand thread as well, and hollow too as the blower gear case breaths through the center of it.




Shops pin the couplings because they spin, not many know what to do on the gear end to combat rotors getting knocked out of time, why do you think they rub? Rotor Flex? I doubt it, most all I have inspected that failed (rotor rubbing or bearing issues) where timing issues. Either male rotor moved or one or both grew towards the gear end because front bearing got too hot too quick and locked up in its bore and the rotor expanded towards the back and the slower, not over heated bearing grew the right way towards the front, the worst thing that could occur. That’s the killer of blowers, only takes a few .0001” difference on bearing bore between living and dying. A recent new Redeye in Florida back to back to back 1/4 hot lapping, no chiller on, MAT of 180F, blower locked up on the return road, killed blower and engine had severe leak down through the valves afterwards (alum dust on valve seats both intake and exhaust.

Here’s the bearing in a recent stock blower, stock pulleys, stock tune blower I took apart because of noisy bearings. Left one (slower one) grease still like new, right one black and burnt and grease hard as a rock. Hence my oil lubed faster bearing experiment that so far a 2.7 blower +10 lower, 2.74 clutched upper that sees 7200 crank rpm still quiet as a mouse and rotors still in time. I’m in the process of modifying 2 more 2.7’s presently with GoManGo billet plate rev2 and oiled faster side front rotor bearing.

Look at how burnt the seal is even, at stock rpm

 

[Speedy!]

Wow

 

[fumanchu182]

Would Redloctite be the solution the problem that doesn't exist? I have run the stock IHI pullye, Litens 2.85, Litens 2.70. Griptech 2.85, Griptech 2.70. Clutched or not clutched. If the blower is going to go, it's probably due to excessive spin.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Would Redloctite be the solution the problem that doesn't exist? I have run the stock IHI pullye, Litens 2.85, Litens 2.70. Griptech 2.85, Griptech 2.70. Clutched or not clutched. If the blower is going to go, it's probably due to excessive spin.

Pinning is the best solution, just like done everywhere else there’s no keys. Just takes the right jig's and time, the smaller gear being the hardest to do, but it’s the one that gets knocked out the easiest and most needed to be done, in the gear case area at least.
Excessive heat is the killer, excessive spin being the creator of such, air compression and seal friction the reasons.

 

[covidcommander]

Pinning is the best solution, just like done everywhere else there’s no keys. Just takes the right jig's and time, the smaller gear being the hardest to do, but it’s the one that gets knocked out the easiest and most needed to be done, in the gear case area at least.
Excessive heat is the killer, excessive spin being the creator of such, air compression and seal friction the reasons.

Thanks for sharing

 

[2ndgen]

I'd much rather risk a snout than a rotor pack--much cheaper and easier to rebuild or replace a snout.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

I'd much rather risk a snout than a rotor pack--much cheaper and easier to rebuild or replace a snout.

Agree. Most snout damage from failed Litens type pulleys has been to the front of the snout from the back of the Litens pulleys backing up to it as the clutch device fails the pulley shell moves in towards the snout. This damage is usually just cosmetic and really does not hurt the function of the snout or front bearing bore.

 

[Octanewide]

@16GoManGoHC2 thanks for the info that helps people out that have never had an IHI apart...

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