is the $4000 lojack fee mandatory?

[Hemidayz]

I was told on top of the additional MSRP, there's a $4,000 lug nut/lo jack fee. I'm assuming this pays for the Lojack System. I don't see the need to pay for this as my car will be garage kept and I live in a relatively safer neighborhood. On top of the national $7,070 rebate, I would like to find a dealership offering close to $5,000 additional but was told I'd have to pay for that $4,000 lo jack fee. Is the dealer trying to play me? Anybody with similar experience can offer some advice? Much appreciated.

 

[SilverBillet]

No! You are not required to pay for LoJack when you buy a new car! Tell them you do not want it.

 

[HWDan]

$4,000 !? seriously that sounds like an ADM scam hidden as some fake mandatory fee they try to squeeze out as much out of you as they think they can hook you into paying.

 

[Hunter]

BS.

 

[Piening2150]

Fuck that dealer. Go somewhere else. Plenty out there that would want your business.

 

[Marc W]

NO. They are adding something that is not required and overcharging you for it. No different than charging for nitrogen in your tires. Walk away.

 

[BULL]

As stated above...


RUN to another dealer...


Not only do you not have to pay that, but the factory alarm system that includes GPS tracking isn't called LoJack

 

[BULL]

More than anything, the Market right now for HCs is such that you shouldn't be paying ANYTHING above Invoice - the Power Dollars. (DEEP DEEP discounts)


They are pulling a pure Sales BS move on you....

 

[Hemidayz]

No! You are not required to pay for LoJack when you buy a new car! Tell them you do not want it.

so that price should not even be considered when haggling prices?

More than anything, the Market right now for HCs is such that you shouldn't be paying ANYTHING above Invoice - the Power Dollars. (DEEP DEEP discounts)


They are pulling a pure Sales BS move on you....

the problem is there aren't too many for sale in my area. Most of these dealers have only 1 or 2 at the most, in which they aren't really offering to much dealer discount after the power dollars.

 

[SilverBillet]

It’s strictly optional. Just tell them you plainly do not want it. Tell them you also do not want the U-Connect subscription. It’s free for an initial period (I do not know the duration) but once you sign up for it, it is a pain to drop it. It costs like $179/year and provides GPS tracking of your car should it get stolen as well as remote starting and locking/unlocking of your car with your cell phone from anywhere...which most people would never use. Not signing up for it will not affect your Uconnect/GPS/SRT Performance pages and other apps that come with the car.

 

[Hunter]

As stated above...


RUN to another dealer...


Not only do you not have to pay that, but the factory alarm system that includes GPS tracking isn't called LoJack

Absolutely no reason anyone would ever consider putting that in the car.
As stated, the car already has a GPS and alarm system.

That I know.
I can use uconnect and ping car location as is.
Also uconnect is included in first year of purchase.

 

[Beast707]

so that price should not even be considered when haggling prices?


the problem is there aren't too many for sale in my area. Most of these dealers have only 1 or 2 at the most, in which they aren't really offering to much dealer discount after the power dollars.

If you're willing to travel I'm sure many members can recommend a Dealer not far from you that will do good by you.

 

[Piening2150]

If you're willing to travel I'm sure many members can recommend a Dealer not far from you that will do good by you.

Not only that but many dealers have finally gotten onboard with long distance/internet sales and delivery with the whole lockdown thing. Should be plenty of dealers out there that will offer a good discount and probably deliver it right to your door.

 

[Magnified]

Hahahahahaahahahaahahahhhaahahhahaahahahahaha..... damn. What dealership was trying to pull that shit?

 

[Stormtrooper1320]

I was told on top of the additional MSRP, there's a $4,000 lug nut/lo jack fee. I'm assuming this pays for the Lojack System. I don't see the need to pay for this as my car will be garage kept and I live in a relatively safer neighborhood. On top of the national $7,070 rebate, I would like to find a dealership offering close to $5,000 additional but was told I'd have to pay for that $4,000 lo jack fee. Is the dealer trying to play me? Anybody with similar experience can offer some advice? Much appreciated.

Did you go to Tobin Dodge in Vegas? It sounds like something they would pull.

There are some Dodge dealers in Idaho that have good prices. I bought my last Ram 1500 from Dennis Dillon Dodge in Caldwell. They beat any price I could find in my area for a more loaded truck by at least $6.5K. It was worth it to get on a plane and drive back across country for the deal. It was a nice break in ride too. Let the internet be your friend when it comes to car shopping. Too many dealers trying to sell cars now during this plague to put up with games and getting taken.

.02

 

[Jimmy N.]

the problem is there aren't too many for sale in my area.

I don't remember buying a vehicle in my state in many years now.
As others have suggested, the entire nation is "my area".

 

[Stormtrooper1320]

I don't remember buying a vehicle in my state in many years now.
As others have suggested, the entire nation is "my area".

Same here.

 

[ChargerChallenger]

Your being lied to tell them you want the HI-JACK one cause their Hi Jacking your ass and ask if the Vaseline comes with it

 

[BULL]

so that price should not even be considered when haggling prices?


the problem is there aren't too many for sale in my area. Most of these dealers have only 1 or 2 at the most, in which they aren't really offering to much dealer discount after the power dollars.

They are counting on you thinking that this is the limiting factor in the deal.



Your price should be between Invoice and MSRP, minus Power Dollars, and frankly should be very close to Invoice minus Power Dollars.


Just my opinion.

 

[2pac]

They are counting on you thinking that this is the limiting factor in the deal.



Your price should be between Invoice and MSRP, minus Power Dollars, and frankly should be very close to Invoice minus Power Dollars.


Just my opinion.

Why not shoot for invoice at minimum and then go for holdback? I feel like Invoice and some is attainable, you might not get all the way to holdback but anything helps.