Dealer oil change using 5w20

[Trucker Bob]

So the Mobil One 0-40 I use in my 2019 Z06 isn't good enough for my HC RE ...? Stop it please ...

This is better than M1 in cold flow.

 

[Trucker Bob]

May be you like Royal purple?

 

[Trucker Bob]

This is better than M1 oil

 

[Trucker Bob]

Even this is better than Mobil 1.

 

[Trucker Bob]

Some people like good enough. some people prefer the best.

 

[Trucker Bob]

Some people are just plain cheap. If you watched all of these videos you learned something Today. You're Welcome....

 

[Trucker Bob]

Silly Vet owners

 

[Trucker Bob]

Oh and this guy is an idiot.

 

[Jimmy N.]

Oh and this guy is an idiot.

If so, he's the most intelligent idiot I've ever met.

 

[Magnified]

Personally, I prefer Redline

 

[Hellcatcfp]

I've never seen any evidence via UOAs showing that either Amsoil, Redline, Mobil, Pennzoil, oil additives, etc. provide superior wear protection.

I know someone (scientist who works with these Polymers) who says this oil additive works...plays well with Zinc and doesn't foul up Cats. Who knows...thought about trying in Hellcat and comparing UOAs?

 

[Magnified]

I've looked into that myself (the zinc). I personally prefer redline for various reasons, mainly just my personal experience with them (they are an ester / PAO based synthetic) but unless you're running in the top 1% of the performance range most any synthetic oil on the market (that meets minimum standards) will do the job. None is clearly better than another in any scientific testing I've seen (though stablity and consistency has been better in what I personally have seen from Redline, but that's only anecdotal).

If you want to really get into oil - see Bob Is The Oil Guy (particularly with how UOAs are abused / misused) and a good basic primer is this Hot Rod article (clearly shows what to expect from any synthetic versus a mineral based oil). https://www.hotrod.com/articles/truth-synthetics-way-just-extra-hp/

I think the clearest proof that no one synthetic is head and shoulders (or statistically significant) better than another is the fact that the auto manufacturers don't cluster around one. If you had a clearly 10% better product, they'd beat a path to your door.

 

[Hellcatcfp]

I've looked into that myself (the zinc). I personally prefer redline for various reasons, mainly just my personal experience with them (they are an ester / PAO based synthetic) but unless you're running in the top 1% of the performance range most any synthetic oil on the market (that meets minimum standards) will do the job. None is clearly better than another in any scientific testing I've seen (though stablity and consistency has been better in what I personally have seen from Redline, but that's only anecdotal).

If you want to really get into oil - see Bob Is The Oil Guy (particularly with how UOAs are abused / misused) and a good basic primer is this Hot Rod article (clearly shows what to expect from any synthetic versus a mineral based oil). https://www.hotrod.com/articles/truth-synthetics-way-just-extra-hp/

I think the clearest proof that no one synthetic is head and shoulders (or statistically significant) better than another is the fact that the auto manufacturers don't cluster around one. If you had a clearly 10% better product, they'd beat a path to your door.

I agree...the base oil is the carrier for the antiwear additives and any friction modifiers along with the detergent packages. From what I know there is no cleaning or lubricating advantage to a group III engine oil vs. a group IV (PAO) engine oil base. Though, PAO holds up better to abuse (heat), etc. thus providing extended oil change interval opportunities.

I am certainly no expert...just a hobbyist.

 

[Jimmy N.]

Though, PAO holds up better to abuse (heat), etc. thus providing extended oil change interval opportunities.

Yup. Up to six months in our case.
Assuming that the garage you use for winter storage isn't too hot.

 

[Hellcatcfp]

Usually oil is changed long before the base oil is compromised. Fuel dilution, contamination levels, etc. usually get it there first.

 

[Hellcatcfp]

In looking at my latest oil analysis...my PUP 0w-40 could easily go 1 year and 6,000+ miles. Wear metals were low, viscosity on the low end of 40 weight (PUP starts on the low end anyway). TBN still at 5.7. Didn't track it during that interval, though I bet tracking is a lot harder on the oil for obvious reasons. But, no biggie while under warranty.

 

[Phizzle]

When I bought my cat, the jackass dealership I bought it from put Liquid Molly in there. Changed it out the next day with the right oil for these cars and ripped them a new one on Yelp and their satisfaction survey.

It's a shame really. Dealerships don't give a shit about your car. Question everything they do, as many have said here. Especially before you drive off.

 

[Magnified]

Why did they change the oil? Used? Left over from previous model year? That's is bizarre. Beyond just Yelping, make sure that is documented for warranty purposes.

 

[Hellcatcfp]

When I bought my cat, the jackass dealership I bought it from put Liquid Molly in there. Changed it out the next day with the right oil for these cars and ripped them a new one on Yelp and their satisfaction survey.

It's a shame really. Dealerships don't give a shit about your car. Question everything they do, as many have said here. Especially before you drive off.

What type of Liquid Molly oil was put in? They make a 0w40 and it isn't garage. Or you talking about Liquid Molly oil additive? Just curious...

 

[Trucker Bob]

I've looked into that myself (the zinc). I personally prefer redline for various reasons, mainly just my personal experience with them (they are an ester / PAO based synthetic) but unless you're running in the top 1% of the performance range most any synthetic oil on the market (that meets minimum standards) will do the job. None is clearly better than another in any scientific testing I've seen (though stablity and consistency has been better in what I personally have seen from Redline, but that's only anecdotal).

If you want to really get into oil - see Bob Is The Oil Guy (particularly with how UOAs are abused / misused) and a good basic primer is this Hot Rod article (clearly shows what to expect from any synthetic versus a mineral based oil). https://www.hotrod.com/articles/truth-synthetics-way-just-extra-hp/

I think the clearest proof that no one synthetic is head and shoulders (or statistically significant) better than another is the fact that the auto manufacturers don't cluster around one. If you had a clearly 10% better product, they'd beat a path to your door.

I forgot about that article from Hot Rod but as you see there was an improvement in MPG and HP.and they were using AMSOIL. Thanks. As you stated "meets minimum standards" Well I'd rather go to a Doctor that got A's not C's in school. So if "good enough" is fine... I'll spend the extra sheckles on "Engineered to be the Best" Also if you're using the best oil you don't need any additives. I never tell people to buy from me. But I do have the freedom of speech,thats what a lot of the people on this forum fought for. So if my post on oil should have someone telling me to "stop" Well "Kiss my grits." As far as the manufacturers they use whats "good enough" to meet their specs.Remember thay make more money fixing cars than selling them. Banks sends AMSOIL with their new diff. cover. When Buell was in production it was their factory fill. AMSOIL also is the gear lube being changed into wind turbines because they can extend the drain intervals providing savings in the millions for that ind. I like Project Farm's videos because all of his testing is easy to understand check out his other content. If this link works it might explain the difference in synthetics Give it a look I think you might find interesting.
TB http://wpc.1c96.edgecastcdn.net/001C96/G-Items/Performance Testing Archives/g3115-5w30-study-archived-2013/files/html5/index.html/zo=5014722