Automotive electrical system question please…

[Old Mopar Guy]

So I’ll start by saying wiring has always intimidated me as I don’t want to burn my vehicle down, or burn out my new lights. Also, pls excuse my lack or proper terminology. So, I’m looking to add these lights to my truck. They draw aprox. 2.25 amps, I bought a switch that resembles the oem switches in the truck, but this switch can only handle 3 amps. So i need a relay to handle the juice, and the switch tells the relay what to do. I think I’ve got that much right. Now looking at the diagram that came with the switch, I think I can figure most of it out. Relay pin 85, 87, and 30 are all self explanatory. Is 86 optional, and if so can I use a 3 pin relay? I’d prefer the lights didn’t go out with the brights on. Thanks.

 

[2ndAmend]

Deleted, I was wrong. It happens, I'm old...

 

[Old Mopar Guy]

Ok, so I’m reading that trigger wire phrase wrong. I would line to control the auxiliary lights independent of the rest of the system. Thanks 2ndA! An anyone else comment on the 3 pin question? Thanks all.

 

[2ndAmend]

STOP! IGNORE WHAT I SAID PREVIOUSLY!

86 connects the relay coil to ground when high beams are on. DO NOT SHORT 30 TO 86! Sorry.

85 provides 12v to the relay coil to turn on the lights.

When I do something like this, I buzz out the connections and relay, supply 12v where necessary to make sure I know what’s what.

 

[Old Mopar Guy]

Ok, no prob, thanks for the correction. Can I get up and running on just a 3 pin relay, if I can find such a thing, and avoid 86 all together?

 

[2fast4u]

If you want them to work independent of the regular lights, ground 86 to body ground. Then your switch will control the on/off function of the relay. The way your diagram shows, lights would only function when on high beams.

 

[Old Mopar Guy]

@2fast4u so I should buy a 4 pin relay, ground 86, and I’ll be good to go and will function as desired. Thank you. Do you know if there 3 pin relays available that eliminate the need to ground 86?

 

[oilburner]

pm your phone # I will call later this morning or any time you like an set you straight on how to wire that relay.

 

[Speedy!]

Use a 4 pin relay and wire independent of vehicle light system is my advice.

 

[Unholy707]

Run power straight from the fuse box positive battery connection and ground in battery ground. Use an inline fuse as well with the relay

 

[Unholy707]

You can get really nice custom billet switches

 

[Unholy707]

 

[Unholy707]

Perfect for your lights.

 

[2ndAmend]

All the modern relays I have seen have a circuit diagram on the side. You need to simply connect the switch to provide 12v to one side of the coil and ground on the other. Then the coil will open/close the contacts connected to the other terminals.

A higher amp switch would be a simpler alternative.

This is a 5-pin fuel pump relay I gutted to drain the fuel tank.

 

[Old Mopar Guy]

Guys, so if I use the relay below, pin 30 goes to battery + with fuse, pin 85 attaches to the green wire shown on the wiring diagram provided by the switch manufacturer seen in my original post, which should activate the relay, pin 86 gets grounded as I want these lights to function independent of the trucks lights, and lastly pin 87 goes to the positive on the lights themselves? Does this seem right? Currently, I have them hooked up and working with the higher amp switch provided by the light manufacturer, but I want the oem look. Switch however is only rated for 3A as mentioned earlier. Thanks for the offer @oilburner, I may take you ip on that later unless it can be made painfully obvious to me here! Thanks as always guys, I appreciate the help

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Guys, so if I use the relay below, pin 30 goes to battery + with fuse, pin 85 attaches to the green wire shown on the wiring diagram provided by the switch manufacturer seen in my original post, which should activate the relay, pin 86 gets grounded as I want these lights to function independent of the trucks lights, and lastly pin 87 goes to the positive on the lights themselves? Does this seem right? Currently, I have them hooked up and working with the higher amp switch provided by the light manufacturer, but I want the oem look. Switch however is only rated for 3A as mentioned earlier. Thanks for the offer @oilburner, I may take you ip on that later unless it can be made painfully obvious to me here! Thanks as always guys, I appreciate the help View attachment 134567

Correct above

 

[Old Mopar Guy]

Excellent, thanks 16GoManGo.

 

[2ndAmend]

I agree. The photo is kinda screwed up. It shows two “positive trigger sources” . The circuit diagram looks correct showing only one “positive trigger source”.

 

[Old Mopar Guy]

@2ndAmend so I’m good with my description above? Just want to be certain. Thanks

 

[oilburner]

Guys, so if I use the relay below, pin 30 goes to battery + with fuse, pin 85 attaches to the green wire shown on the wiring diagram provided by the switch manufacturer seen in my original post, which should activate the relay, pin 86 gets grounded as I want these lights to function independent of the trucks lights, and lastly pin 87 goes to the positive on the lights themselves? Does this seem right? Currently, I have them hooked up and working with the higher amp switch provided by the light manufacturer, but I want the oem look. Switch however is only rated for 3A as mentioned earlier. Thanks for the offer @oilburner, I may take you ip on that later unless it can be made painfully obvious to me here! Thanks as always guys, I appreciate the help View attachment 134567

that pic is correct. 85 an 86 is the coil that creates the magnetism to close 30 an 87 which takes the load.