Replace fuel level floater and filters

[16GoManGoHC2]

Do you run this? Ive never heard of anyone running it in a TI dual fuel pump setup, would would like to know more if people are

I looked into this it’s not recommended by the fuel pump manufacturer to put the Holley fuel mat on the inlet of their fuel pumps. It causes too much of a suction side restriction. I think if you ask Rick at Tapped he will probably tell you the same thing.

Glad I just pulled em, filters are junk. Arm isn’t getting hung up on wires, but look at the butt connections for the sensor

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Black fuel inlet filters are usually a sign of carbon from the brushes in the motors which means the brush material has gotten soft and it’s time to replace the pumps. Fore will tell you this and maybe Rick at Tapped too. And those aren’t but spice connectors on your fuel level sensor wires, they are quick disconnect connectors, and the one looks like it’s not pushed together all the way.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

I have to tie back the wires every year or 2 like clockwork.

This year I may as well do the double-to-triple upgrade while I'm there. I'll be deciphering the Injected Gasohol install and reversing all wire splices then going with the Tapped plug & play kit and a 3rd FPCM.

Realistically the next step is full racecar...I just don't want to have to open this tank again.

I was going to do the same thing once long ago, run three fuel pumps on fuel pump control modules but after doing research when I went to three pumps like I have now, I run the two primaries on fuel pump control modules and the third one is boost reference activated at 20 psi of boost for me. Boost switch controlling a 60 amp relay that runs the pump wide open, the other 2 then throttle back, works great and it only runs when you’re under high boost, ie only when needed. Running three pumps even at a slow speed puts too much heat in the gas tank and gets the fuel too hot, 2 running all the time is already too much heat going into the fuel tank. Just think of them as hundred watt incandescent bulbs and how much heat they put off, two is already too much heat let alone have a third one as well Hanging in there, heating all the time. My .02

 

[Unholy707]

Car started idles good ran good and then died around the corner lmfao. Fuel level sensor light still blinking in the dash like crazy. Had to push it home

 

[Unholy707]

Might have plugged one pump into the “wrong” fpcm plug, but that shouldn’t matter?

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Might have plugged one pump into the “wrong” fpcm plug, but that shouldn’t matter?

If they both are the type with check valves (265, 275, 285) no, it does not matter which one is plugged in where. And if they are the ones without check valves (the 295 series) as long as both are running is fine, but if only one is running, you won’t get good fuel pressure to drive with, It will idle but not drive well.

 

[fubar569]

I was going to do the same thing once long ago, run three fuel pumps on fuel pump control modules but after doing research when I went to three pumps like I have now, I run the two primaries on fuel pump control modules and the third one is boost reference activated at 20 psi of boost for me. Boost switch controlling a 60 amp relay that runs the pump wide open, the other 2 then throttle back, works great and it only runs when you’re under high boost, ie only when needed. Running three pumps even at a slow speed puts too much heat in the gas tank and gets the fuel too hot, 2 running all the time is already too much heat going into the fuel tank. Just think of them as hundred watt incandescent bulbs and how much heat they put off, two is already too much heat let alone have a third one as well Hanging in there, heating all the time. My .02

...I mean you're probably not wrong on this. I really hadn't even considered the possibility of running the Third on a Hobbs.

 

[Unholy707]

Really don’t feel like pulling them again today. But guess I have to. Have a wire got pinched while installing but doubtful, pumps sound very low priming, making a different noise. All I touch was the filters and 2 wires for new fuel level sensor. Went and got more fuel because it was really low, put 5 gallons in and still nothing. Guess I could use my HHP fuel drain relay and see if fuel is even getting to the rails before I pull em

 

[Unholy707]

Not sure which pumps they are, can’t see. Whichever ones I jected engineering had in their Gasahol kit 5 or 6 years ago

 

[Unholy707]

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Number you need to see is under the black holder starts with a two you can’t see the next two digits. If they are five or six years old and the filters were black like that, they need replacing they’re probably not flowing nowhere near what they should be.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

...I mean you're probably not wrong on this. I really hadn't even considered the possibility of running the Third on a Hobbs.

I use an industrial grade waterproof, fully adjustable to 50 psi, remote mounted switch that is hooked up via a tube on the back of the blower. II use an industrial grade waterproof fully adjustable 1 to 50 psi remote mounted switch that is hooked up via a 1/4” tube on the back of the blower. I have it set to come on at 20 and it turns off at 18.

 

[zhc]

I looked into this it’s not recommended by the fuel pump manufacturer to put the Holley fuel mat on the inlet of their fuel pumps. It causes too much of a suction side restriction. I think if you ask Rick at Tapped he will probably tell you the same thing.

In a quest to find some weight reduction, I tried Holley Hydramats despite these concerns. They allowed me to run 2 gallons less fuel than my previous "safe" minimum however one of my pumps burned up after a couple races and a few months had pass by. Was it from the restriction caused by the mats? Or maybe it was from not having as much fuel around the pumps to help keep them cooler. Can't say for sure but I did swap back recently to normal pre filters.

While at TX2K, I was maxed out on what my triple pump triple bap setup could supply so I decided to swap out the Hydramats for normal Walbro pre filters to see if it would help. Unfortunately, I only had one shot to try and improve my situation so ended up making multiple changes that would invalidate a before/after test. I did see an improvement but I can't say how much of that, if any, could be attributed to switching back to standard pre filters.

 

[zhc]

Really don’t feel like pulling them again today. But guess I have to. Have a wire got pinched while installing but doubtful, pumps sound very low priming, making a different noise. All I touch was the filters and 2 wires for new fuel level sensor. Went and got more fuel because it was really low, put 5 gallons in and still nothing. Guess I could use my HHP fuel drain relay and see if fuel is even getting to the rails before I pull em

A log to see if you have any fuel pressure or not when you key on to the run position can also answer your question. If pressure is really low, you'll probably have to pull your assembly back out, or at least pull up the hat to see if all your lines are still plugged in where they're supposed to be.

 

[Unholy707]

Yeah, I’m going to go plug in now. I know I plugged the line in until it clicked, return was in place. I heard almost like a pop from the trunk area, so could have been the relay or the inline fuse for the pumps. Not sure why it would have blown though. And brand new fuel level sensor didn’t do anything, light blinking fuel time (but it registering fuel level)

 

[Unholy707]

Zero fuel pressure in run and 0 while cranking 😑

 

[Unholy707]

And just some vehicle speed etc related codes from it dying in the middle of driving

 

[Unholy707]

So I’m thinking the inline fuse or relay blew for the pumps. Still not sure why. Still getting the BCM message flashing “service fuel sensor” on dash (which is a fuel level sensor short U code) and fuel light blinking. Pretty annoying, replaced the arm to correct that issue (message coming on and gas light flashing every now and then) and now it’s full time/car won’t start

 

[Unholy707]

All o rings were in place after install screws were in, fuel line clipped in, return. Has to be electrical I guess but not sure why or how. Open to suggestions.

 

[zhc]

Time to pull out some testing equipment.

 

[Unholy707]

Yeah, they’re at least 5 years old. About 40k miles on them. Pretty bummed, nothing I did should have impacted them. Unless it was so low in fuel I finally burnt them up in 2 minutes of driving (to the gas station). Doubt they both went at the same time. Really weary of dealing with electrical gremlins. Have so far been lucky until this

Number you need to see is under the black holder starts with a two you can’t see the next two digits. If they are five or six years old and the filters were black like that, they need replacing they’re probably not flowing nowhere near what they should be.