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I had one of those memory saver boxes plugged into my lighter plug when I changed the battery. Never lost any memory but the windows would not go all the way up along with the key fob doing weird things. among other glitches. It all went away after a road test.
My winter beater, an ‘05 Trailblazer, was experiencing all kinds of electrical gremlins. From the rear wiper going on by itself for no reason to dash warning lights staying on for a couple minutes and clock not keeping time. I figured bad ground(s) or mice chewed wiring. A new battery fixed it all and there’s nothing sophisticated about that vehicle’s electronics.
My first experience w this as noted elsewhere was the computer reverting to a partial OEM tune bc of low battery on SC GTO 2006. Even factory engineers said technically that was impossible, yet nevertheless it happened.
The line of those who wish to say "I told you so" starts to the left.
And the other two should follow Palwithau's lead and throw out their old school methods and thinking.
90% of these no starts are the battery. Typical signs -
3-4 year old battery
"I get lights/radio,etc but no engine cranking"
"I'm sure it's not the battery"
I have too, since 2015. Add an aftermarket controller into the system for the first time this winter, and that particular product may not be so tolerant of whatever the trickle charger does. The balance of the electronics are fine. I’ll know more, but the report last week was “a few” of us has developed the problem. WTF do ya think, Mike? I gave the car long lasting Rona??
I also have a '14 JGC Overland with lots of electronics. It's a May '13 build, and the battery was almost 9 years old, so I decided to replace it proactively, but it was still going strong and load test said it was fine. JGC batteries are located under the floor of the front passenger seat and are a bitch to remove, but that location must aid in longevity.
This is the one I have used both on my Terminater and Cat for years without a problem. I check it on a regular basis with my DVOM and it goes between 13+V and back to 12.7 V. It works on both wet and glas mat batterys
I also have a '14 JGC Overland with lots of electronics. It's a May '13 build, and the battery was almost 9 years old, so I decided to replace it proactively, but it was still going strong and load test said it was fine. JGC batteries are located under the floor of the front passenger seat and are a bitch to remove, but that location must aid in longevity.
Similar. Got a ‘15 JGC Limited and the remote start wasn’t working and the gauges and radio would flip out while driving. Changed the battery and presto, no more issues.
This is the one I have used both on my Terminater and Cat for years without a problem. I check it on a regular basis with my DVOM and it goes between 13+V and back to 12.7 V. It works on both wet and glas mat batterys
This is the one I have used both on my Terminater and Cat for years without a problem. I check it on a regular basis with my DVOM and it goes between 13+V and back to 12.7 V. It works on both wet and glas mat batterys
Thats the ticket. Dual type charger/tender. Lots of people wonder why absorbed glass mat (AGM) battery won’t keep if put on wet/flooded type. The dual type is the way to go.
This battery won’t charge dude, I’ve been boiling it I mean charging it for 4 hrs and it stinks like rotten eggs I don’t get it.
AAAAAAhhh step away from the boiling battery that’s bulging on all 4 sides, And best if you shut off the charger or unplug it.
No way dude I’ll just make some mean sparks on the terminals by removing the spring loaded leads while this amp meter shows pegged. I have seen a couple of batteries go ballistic over the past 40 years.Thank god not by my doings and from a reasonable distance.
Basically what I am saying is some times if AGM style goes into deep discharge, sometimes you can’t recharge it with out AGM style Charger. It’s in a coma and sometimes you can’t wake it up. Boil it all ya want. It likes an AGM style Charger. Even with a professional grade Charger I found sometimes to wake it up slow with low amp charge then ramp up the rate.
Yep, the key to reviving a dead (or really low) battery is to give it no more than 2 Amps, for a long time.
It'll never be the same, but could still be useful for years.
So with all the great advice fun jabs and car talk it WAS the battery
I am throwing out my old school methods and thinking
Despite the ignition working strong power to items such as radio lights etc, a try at a jump start along the way load test at autotive shop showed bad battery
We are now driving our hellcat once again!!!
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