Engine Break-in, Bed-in, Run-in Definitive Guide

[Hellcatcfp]

Interesting...kind of what I thought nowadays. Same with the Hellcat.

https://www.oilem.com/blog/engine-break-in-bed-in-run-in-definitive-guide/

 

[Stormtrooper1320]

Interesting...kind of what I thought nowadays. Same with the Hellcat.

https://www.oilem.com/blog/engine-b...-definitive-guide/in-run-in-definitive-guide/

What happened to the old....."break it in like you're gonna drive it"

Which I never followed by the way. I'm still stuck in the old mindset of changing the oil at the first 500 miles, then again at 1000 miles. Other than that, I followed the break in procedure in the owners manual.....mostly .......pretty much......

 

[BULL]

Busted link???

 

[Matt someone with an SRT]

Most people might not realize this but between 300-500 miles it specifies to rev the car between 4000 - 6000 rpm... and not aggressively. Easiest way to do it is use the paddle shifters and slowly stretch the engine between those rpms. If your only using automatic mode you will never do this correctly.

 

[Hellcatcfp]

Ok, not sure what happened.

https://www.oilem.com/blog/engine-break-in-bed-in-run-in-definitive-guide/

 

[Stormtrooper1320]

Most people might not realize this but between 300-500 miles it specifies to rev the car between 4000 - 6000 rpm... and not aggressively. Easiest way to do it is use the paddle shifters and slowly stretch the engine between those rpms. If your only using automatic mode you will never do this correctly.

I found that using Drag mode.....and open interstate......and a certain amount of pressure from my right foot helped achieve this easily

 

[Hellcatcfp]

Curious what you think @BULL.

 

[Matt someone with an SRT]

I found that using Drag mode.....and open interstate......and a certain amount of pressure from my right foot helped achieve this easily

Yes but the thing is to do it properly per say it’s best using like 1/4-1/2 throttle and use the paddles and slowly go through that rev range. Because in auto if your going less than 2/3 throttle it will Short shift you to the next gear like before 4000 rpm

 

[Matt someone with an SRT]

You don’t want to put full load on the supercharger under 500 miles.. it’s still breaking in that whole period and even doing 2/3 throttle a few times I could smell that burning/breaking in smell of the blower while under 500 miles. Just a suggestion! For the higher rpms.

 

[2fast4u]

Interesting. I have always been nice the first 500 miles, but I still occasionally would get the revs up and let it engine brake, have almost all the motors I built or bought last well over 100K. On this beast, I drove around 300 miles when I purchased it, drove home in rain so I was easy on it, but took it to track following week at just over 400 miles...it hasn't missed a beat and I'm about to hit 12K on odometer.

 

[Heminized]

One key take away from this outstanding article.
"It also enables manufactures to use a high quality synthetic oils from the factory without the need for running-in oil."

Had FCA stuck with Mobil there probably wouldn't be a need for the 500 mile requested so called "Break In" period.
But, they went with Pennzoil, so my theory is that is why the there was a "Break in" requirement. *Cough*

 

[BULL]

Curious what you think @BULL.

1 + 1 = 2

Really, generally I agree with what he's saying, however, the flip side of this coin is that there are far many more things to think about during break-in than just the cylinder walls.

Bearings, bushings, etc etc etc.

IMO, there is not a single answer to the problem, what is good for some components, is not great for others.



What I do:

• During the very first time I drive, I make sure to do several full throttle accelerations to rev limit.
  • Why: prevents ring/cylinder wall lip impacts
  • Piston TDC is very different at rev limit than it is under "normal" driving
  • oil clearances collapse, rods stretch, pistons flex, cranks flex, etc.
• During the first 500ish miles, I make sure to fully warm car before driving, ensuring to NOT let RPM remain constant.
  • Metal has different wear properties when it's cold
  • Micro work-hardening
• Also during the first 500ish miles, slowly, steadily increase full throttle accelerations to rev limit
  • Same reason, ring/cylinder wall lip impact reduction/prevention.
• I don't drive it like I stole it right away
  • There are a hundred other components after your cylinder walls to think about as well
  • Again, micro work-hardening, use it wisely, your components will thank you.

.02
.25

 

[Slowpoke387]

These engines are broken in at the factory and so I'm thinking the 500 miles is more for trans and diff than engine.

 

[vortecd]

People build motors for cars and just go drag racing so they don't drive it easy for awhile. I have had new stuff and lean to a break in period but I have known others just the opposite with nothing going wrong either way. To me it is what helps you sleep at night, don't over think it

 

[Lize]

I always think it a shame the delivery miles is usually towards 30 miles and who knows what's been done before you get it, interesting the article mentions the first 50 miles being most critical.

Was reading the break in procedure in the manual a few weeks ago in anticipation, its practically identical to the Nissan GTR.

I can never understand why you see cars with similar run in procedure for sale with say 1200 miles, all they've done it the break in unless they've disregarded it.

I tend to stick to advised break in so's not to risk warranty although the Challenger will be an aftermarket one rather than FCA and so hope nothing major goes wrong. I've had 3 GTRs, the first was second hand and the gearbox failed with a warranty claim of £18.5K, I ran in the next one and that didnt have any problems, I also ran in my third and had gearbox problems with that too, by then the warranty claim was £23.5K!!!

Off the topic but incase anyone reads who is interested, in both cases the gearbox was replaced and sent back to Japan, after the first time a design change was made to reduce fluid volume in the later model cars but the problem still happened in my newer car. Specialists tell me the gearbox problem is unusual and its a fault with not cleaning the solenoids but I've had them serviced at the relevant Nissan main dealer and surely Nissan Japan would blame the dealer for incorrect servicing or change the service schedule if it were that simple. The car is now out of warranty so if it goes wrong again I'll have the gearbox stripped, the whole back axle has to come off so unlikely I'll be doing it on a trolley jack in the garden but for the dealer price I could build a garage with lift before tackling it .

 

[ChargerChallenger]

Here I’m thinking this is a new marriage thing guideline with the wife...just reading the title

 

[Hickster]

Steal you like you did steal it. I didn't say that. Oh, Bob, the cat has you on video.

 

[EricG]

One interesting takeaway here:

2. In the lower gears, particularly 2nd and 3rd and where safe to do so, accelerate moderately to approx. 2/3 of the rev range and let the vehicle slow down using the engine braking rather than the foot brakes.


I don't think there's anything significantly new here IMO. Lots of the tips are almost exactly the same as the often linked to small motorcycle engine break in article from many years ago...

 

[Jimmy N.]

I found it interesting that the article, apparently written in a hurry, stated that "Therefore, any final running in should be completed promptly and not over 1,000+ miles where there is a risk of bore glazing resulting in reduced power loss and potential excessive oil consumption."

Here I thought that reduced power loss would be a very good thing.

 

[KANNINA 2.0]

Well, if you pick up your car at a dealer in another state and have to drive it 700 miles home, well this is all OBE...