Clutch line part identification

[16GoManGoHC2]

Yea, if I thought it was grabby before look out without it lol
Yea, driveline shock galore lol.
Now I have to figure out to use it or loose it with the BSB. At least it’s not hard to remove and put back in. I’ll see if the stock hose is long enough to plug in direct if it’s removed or not and post. If not it will require removing the guts and putting it back in empty which only takes a few minutes to gut it. Good thing I had a spare as when I pulled the first one apart the guts flew apart and I had no idea how they came out, the second one I pulled apart slowly after learning there’s springs and crap the fly apart when remove. Now there’s pictures here if anyone suffers the same fate lol. Bad thing is it will be months before I’m out possibly, somebody else has to be the Guinea pig first as we can’t wait that long to know can we???

 

[BULL]

Yea, if I thought it was grabby before look out without it lol
Yea, driveline shock galore lol.
Now I have to figure out to use it or loose it with the BSB. At least it’s not hard to remove and put back in. I’ll see if the stock hose is long enough to plug in direct if it’s removed or not and post. If not it will require removing the guts and putting it back in empty which only takes a few minutes to gut it. Good thing I had a spare as when I pulled the first one apart the guys flew apart and I had no idea how they came out, the second one I pulled apart slowly after learning there’s springs and crap the fly apart when remove. Now there’s pictures here if anyone suffers the same fate lol. Bad thing is it will be months before I’m out possibly, somebody else has to be the Guinea pig first as we can’t wait that long to know can we???

So what's not clear to me is if this is a revision starting with later MYs, or has it been on all M6s??

I haven't been that deep into mine, but I also haven't seen it either...

 

[thetalonguy]

I don't remember seeing that part on my line when I was in there removing the blue/black CDV plastic restrictors.

I was in the camp that I felt a very noticeable change in my clutch engagement after removing those two pieces. Was certainly not a placebo effect for me. My engagement out of first was so inconsistent that it had me questioning my M6 purchase. Smooth as butter now.
Perhaps it does have to do with year. I have a 2017, and it seems there were fewer 2017-2019 M6’s built whereas there are more 2015-2016s out there.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

It’s easy to see, right below the power brake booster. The new one is for all model years, exactly the same as my 16 original.

 

[BULL]

It’s easy to see, right below the power brake booster. The new one is for all model years, exactly the same as my 16 original.

I'll check mine this weekend, it needs a trip out from semi-hibernation anyway.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Here it is in the line before I took it out, the paper towels are just there under it to catch the brake fluid that came out which was just a couple drops. See the brake booster to the left? It’s right there in the corner next to the firewall.

 

[2fast4u]

Clutch delay valve, throw it away!

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Clutch delay valve, throw it away!

You have a stick cat?
Being I won’t be running for a while (heads still at Thitek) anyone want to remove theirs and see what it feels like? The hose won’t reach with out the black thing, the valve, there but I’d be willing to mail someone a gutted one to put in the place of the stock one. Anyone game? It’s super easy to get out and back in once the cowl is off, which takes about 20 minutes, no special tools required but a push pin removing tool helps get the push pins out across the strut tower brace.
Anyone? Or just remove yours, gut it and put it back in and test the difference. It’s easy to put the parts back inside it and nothing is ruined, it comes apart by removing a plastic clip just like removing the hair pin clips to get the clutch line out of the HRB fitting, all those connections are the same right to the master cylinder.
Here is the BSB plumbed into the clutch line minus the CDV. Notice the paper towels barely have any fluid on them, I had it apart 3 times and only a few drops of fluid lost.

Here is the CDV by itself. See the slot, that’s a plastic U clip that holds the male end inside the unit and keeps the guts inside. Pull out the clip, pull male end out of the body, the 4 pieces come right out, put the male plug back in and put plastic clip back in, gutted CDV, put it back in.

 

[BULL]

FYI, as expected, mine does have it.

I've got a pic if needed for some reason.

As for testing, mine is essentially put away for several months, I did get mine out 40' to the driveway to start and circulate oil, charge battery, etc, but the roads are still snow covered.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

FYI, as expected, mine does have it.

I've got a pic if needed for some reason.

As for testing, mine is essentially put away for several months, I did get mine out 40' to the driveway to start and circulate oil, charge battery, etc, but the roads are still snow covered.

Yea, winter here too. I can still cycle the clutch once it’s bled and I’ll know a bit by how hard it slams up or not if it’s going to be too wild or not. I have an email out to BSB asking his recommendation on whether to remove it or let it in place but as you can tell I plumbed it without it expecting his answer to be remove it. It’s easy enough to put back in. When my cars back running I’ll just leave the doors and cowl cover off during testing as I don’t even know how if I’m going to like the BSB or not. It’s 900 bucks so if it’s a 👎 off to a buddy or eBay it will go as the mustang guys like them. It can be turned off completely and act like it’s not there for normal driving so we shall see. It took a 9.5 PB stang to a 8.95 PB on its second pass of use so have high hopes and expectations for it. 🤞🏻🤞🏻

 

[Unholy707]

I’ve taken out my tr6060 and the clutch salve heck even the freaking pedal assembly and I’ve never ever seen that hose/fitting. Then again I replaced stock with a Ram twin disc and hydraulic throw out bearing along with rams clutch pedal height adjuster

 

[Unholy707]

Btw, RAM clutches makes the clutches for bad boys garage… they just paint them black for them, and bad boys adjusts/shims the HRB for you before they ship it

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

I’ve had my cat out a few times now with the real CDV removed. NO MORE START OFF CHATTER FROM THE RXT1200 HD !! Like night and day different on ease of a smooth start off, no more shudder!! I think the shifts grab quicker too, the other day on a 60-130 run she broke loose when I banged 4th, doesn’t usually do that, could be cold roads too. But I like it with it gone, it’s staying out.
I don’t have the BSB wired in yet, got to get back on it as I’ve been driving with no cowl cover or windshield wipers lol so I can get down in there to plug it in to its controller after I get the wires through the fire wall.

 

[Unholy707]

I’ve had my cat out a few times now with the real CDV removed. NO MORE START OFF CHATTER FROM THE RXT1200 HD !! Like night and day different on ease of a smooth start off, no more shudder!! I think the shifts grab quicker too, the other day on a 60-130 run she broke loose when I banged 4th, doesn’t usually do that, could be cold roads too. But I like it with it gone, it’s staying out.
I don’t have the BSB wired in yet, got to get back on it as I’ve been driving with no cowl cover or windshield wipers lol so I can get down in there to plug it in to its controller after I get the wires through the fire wall.

Nice! I’ve never heard of that bang shift billy before!! Will that allow you to no lift shift the car? Trying to find out what it’s all about

 

[HawkeyeFan84]

Are the shifts harsh now and putting stress on your driveline? I am still in the break in period of my McLeod RXT 1000 but if this could have been an issue that led to my Spec clutch burning up prematurely, I'll remove that real valve tonight!

 

[HawkeyeFan84]

It's definitely more grabby on the application of the clutch. I like the more direct feel though. There is a bit of driveline shock but my car is stock and only street driven. The drag radials hook better than street tires but still mostly no match under 40. I just hit the 500 mile break in on my clutch, so I'll see what it feels like at full throttle.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Are the shifts harsh now and putting stress on your driveline? I am still in the break in period of my McLeod RXT 1000 but if this could have been an issue that led to my Spec clutch burning up prematurely, I'll remove that real valve tonight!

Yes, shifts are more harsh on the driveline now, but quicker in applying power which means your clutch discs are not being asked to slip (and wear) on hard shifts and quicker now (all be it by fractions of a second only). Everything comes at a price.