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School me on spark plugs.

vortecd

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I'm flying Mike in to do my plugs when they need it.
I think that would make a good video for your youtube channel. Just don't edit it and maybe you will make up some new words in the process:LOL:
 


BULL

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Meh, I'm just going to drop the K-member and be done with it.
 


16GoManGoHC2

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I think that would make a good video for your youtube channel. Just don't edit it and maybe you will make up some new words in the process:LOL:
Yeah that would probably be pretty funny as I make up my own words just to amuse myself to keep me from beating on some thing once in a while. I see my boy shaking his head all the time when he’s helping me with some of the words I come up with, When we’re working on his car his friends come over I think just to listen to the comedy show and learn new expressions of love LOL
 


jonx96

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I saw even the added noise from the LMI had additional knock in all of my logs compared to the stock box. Now there was no real science to this just something I noticed.
I ended up around 18 percent in some ranges.
if you are mixing race fuel in and pull let’s say 3 degrees across the board and still have an issue it’s time to desensitize knock sensors. Especially since you’ve done so many additionally checks that all seem to check out.
If you remember I made a thread about this a month or so ago.
As you said I don’t want to blow an engine but I also want to run my best times.
 


vortecd

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I havent changed spark plugs once myself in the car and since I bought it used who knows whats going on in there. This weekends activities include compression check, borescope images and inspecting the knock sensors. I’d like to add changing the plugs. Im currently running a 2.72 and have read on the old forums that 0.028 is recommended for cars up to 18psi. Here are my options on rockauto:
View attachment 53504

Can anyone speak to the items in this list or recommend another brand or one step cooler?
so what plugs did you go with?
 


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fumanchu182

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Thread Starter #106

vortecd

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I ordered the NGK 2309 which is one step colder
 


16GoManGoHC2

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I ordered the NGK 2309 which is one step colder
This is the plug I’ve been using for 3 years now too, never gave me a issue, gap them at .028”. Here’s a picture of them after about 2500 miles on corn since new. Notice where the heat band is in the ground strap, about right at the bend where it should be, it can be seen how it migrates back and forth between the root and the bend from part throttle to full throttle operation. Notice the soot ring on the threads, about 2-3 threads deep like it should be. This is 17.5 psi of boost on E85 making about 930 wheel. Engine likes this heat range of plug, I thought about trying a non extended tip type next but this one is running nice why change.
CFFC01B2-9AFE-42FD-BC80-80273680E8A2.jpeg 4CDEB788-A827-45B2-B498-B75163883093.jpeg E197DA79-FA56-49F7-8ED5-141DBFC33BB1.jpeg
 


vortecd

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This is the plug I’ve been using for 3 years now too, never gave me a issue, gap them at .028”. Here’s a picture of them after about 2500 miles on corn since new. Notice where the heat band is in the ground strap, about right at the bend where it should be, it can be seen how it migrates back and forth between the root and the bend from part throttle to full throttle operation. Notice the soot ring on the threads, about 2-3 threads deep like it should be. This is 17.5 psi of boost on E85 making about 930 wheel. Engine likes this heat range of plug, I thought about trying a non extended tip type next but this one is running nice why change.
View attachment 62023 View attachment 62024 View attachment 62025
Ran across your post from the "hood" You said they were stock heat range which is a 7 and these are a 7:)
 


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16GoManGoHC2

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Ran across your post from the "hood" You said they were stock heat range but I'm sure you know they are a step colder being a "7" and stock is "6"
Didn’t know that at first but caught it somewhere along the way and was happy to hear that news but THANKS for pointing it out here again. It’s why I mentioned all the stuff about ground strap showing heat range is good and soot marks on threads showing the same thing backing up the one heat range colder you mentioned is liked with increased boost and corn. I like this plug too!! 👍
 


16GoManGoHC2

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Based on most members here, it sounds like you should do up a dedicated thread showing your tooling setup.

@fumanchu182 about lost his temper more than once doing it.
Just saw this, here you go


45F0C517-DD67-4539-937E-051A78E84A29.jpeg
Use this cotter key remover to push the E connector tab in and push the connector off. Dull the tip so it doesn’t poke through the tab.
image.jpg image.jpg
 


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fumanchu182

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Thread Starter #112
I've always been meaning to pick up a set of the articulating ratchet heads. I avoid the snap on truck, any decent brands to go with. ICON, matco, craftsman, dare I say Pittsuburg. I used to be a big craftsman fan but they moved all production to india and I consider myself lucky to have gotten a full set in 2008.
 


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The best advice I gleaned, from this thread:

1. Remove the intercooler tank and push it out of the way.

2. Remove the passenger side wheel and wheel well liner.

3. Remove the retainers for that stupid junction box, that is on top of the coil packs.

Next time, this is going to save years off my life, stress wise...

Let's go, Brandon!
 


16GoManGoHC2

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I've always been meaning to pick up a set of the articulating ratchet heads. I avoid the snap on truck, any decent brands to go with. ICON, matco, craftsman, dare I say Pittsuburg. I used to be a big craftsman fan but they moved all production to india and I consider myself lucky to have gotten a full set in 2008.
Since Lowes has taken over the Craftsman brand it has improved immensely, I’ve purchased a few of their new stuff from ratchets to ratcheting wrenches, much better then their stuff of the last 5-8 years.
 


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I am quite partial to the Husky brand at home depot
 


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I saw even the added noise from the LMI had additional knock in all of my logs compared to the stock box. Now there was no real science to this just something I noticed.
I ended up around 18 percent in some ranges.
if you are mixing race fuel in and pull let’s say 3 degrees across the board and still have an issue it’s time to desensitize knock sensors. Especially since you’ve done so many additionally checks that all seem to check out.
If you remember I made a thread about this a month or so ago.
As you said I don’t want to blow an engine but I also want to run my best times.
So the modified intake was causing more knock? That was the only change?
 


Magnified

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I still have all my old made in USA tools, and my fathers. And my grandfathers for that matter.

Allow me to digress a second. I seek this stuff out. I have hats, boots, spackling knives, RO systems, chemicals, etc... all made in the USA today. I'll pay a little more to support my nation and give an american a job.

Patriotic short.gif
 


jonx96

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So the modified intake was causing more knock? That was the only change?
O I don't remember what I was replying to hear. But I did see more knock on the exact same tune with the LMI. IAT were also higher so maybe heat didn't help. Regardless it was the same exact tune on the same day.
I sold the LMI.
You have to remember even a fixed pulley can make enough noise to cause the knock sensors to hear something.
 


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Just trying to verify that was the only change. Interesting. You remember how much higher the IAT was?
 


jonx96

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Just trying to verify that was the only change. Interesting. You remember how much higher the IAT was?
I have another thread somewhere about it. Or maybe vortecd made the thread. We both went to the same track same day. Same 60ft and I picked up like 2 or 3 mph with the stock box.
 




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