Killer Chiller Install Help Wanted!

[MurderCat]

Car is currently at the shop right now having issues with KC install.

-Dodge couldn't recharge the A/C system since everything goes by vin/computer system - Wouldn't allow more than factory R123yf. Shop car is at now has to buy equipment to do older R134a. - Warned the seals and compressor may fail after 5 years with the older stuff.

-Killer Chiller location doesn't look optimal/off IMO. Installer said he put it there for cooling - Requested in the crash beam or under the light. I think it's blocking airflow, what do you guys with kits installed think? Need to move it?

Been playing phone tag with KC and the shop since they couldn't get in contact with each other.....not having a good time
Last thing holding the car back from being home! Any help or knowledge is appreciated.


Not sure what this is going to or if it's just hanging there.

 

[zhc]

With KC installs, the biggest mistake one can make is in choosing a shop who has never done one of these on this platform before.

With that said, that KC core doesn't need to see any airflow on it. In fact, it's blocking some airflow to the a/c condenser which is a critical piece of proper a/c (and subsequently killer chiller) operation. I have my KC installed where my auxiliary heat exchanger used to be on the driver side. I also bypassed the primary as all it does is fight the KC when it's setup properly. The KC has the ability to drop I/C fluid temps far below ambient and all the primary heat exchange will do is heat it back up.

Most folks convert over to 134a because it's easier to get, is cheaper, and has nearly identical operating pressures as 1234yf. Something to note, there will be a need to adjust the charge level up or down from an initial charge for optimal performance and I typically do this based on observed vent temps and I/C temps over time. If you have too much freon charged, it will perform poorly. Likewise, if you are under charged, it will perform poorly. There's a happy narrow range that you want to be in and that range varies from install to install depending on hose length and heat load on the system.

 

[MurderCat]

Thank you ZHC. Very informative.

Agreed, definitely another mistake. Didn't know they've never installed a chiller before on top of not having any A/C equipment or else would have waited 100%. Said they'd take care of it and to go ahead with the order before all that was found out...too late now. Shop is a friend and recommendation of Dusterhoff tuning so trying to give benefit of the doubt...

Think they trimmed the front bumper already mentioned something about the grille hopefully its not noticeable... Gave pictures and rough details of install before the kit arrived but didn't go by them for some reason. KC has been really hard for them to contact apparently which adds to the install problems.

From what KC and you are saying the primary heat exchanger should be bypassed or deleted for best temps.

Sort of confused what valve setup to go with now. - Currently have a two way drag valve but would like to bypass the oem heat exchanger vs. deleting for normal driving when A/C is off. Guessing i need both the drag valve and 3 way? Two switches in the cabin?

 

[zhc]

Drag valve is highly recommended, 3 way for bypassing the primary HX is optional. I found myself running my a/c all the time (a/c on with heat/defrost in the winter time) so I did away with my 3 way a long time ago. You can of course, do whatever you want and there's plenty of installs out there that incorporate a 3 way for the primary hx.

 

[Hickster]

2 cents, in. No reason not to run this off 134A. None. Have been talking to another member and have come up with different issues. Tank, no, water no, heat exchangers are nothing more than your rad e ator and your cooling boxes. To a certain extent the cooler the engine the more HP will produce, certain extent. Why the new camero came out with 6. Be knowing the amount the C8 has. I would remove the HX tubing, add an air eliminator, or air extractor, cut back on the sharp 90 degree turns and use street 90s. All copper and silver soldered. A new introduction to the system. A variable speed drive, VFDs on the primary and secondary fans. As track persons go, this will take off the battery and other components off the primary system. Can drop this with a magnetic speed drive which will decrease the power not used to 10% of usage. Hope that helps.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

I guess you didn’t see all the pictures I posted on how I installed my drag size KC with HX bypass valve and drag valve and a1.2 gallon hopper tank and except for the insulated lines you’d never know it’s there? PM me a phone number and I’ll txt you LOTS of pictures including charge pressures with 134a

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

PS, that “thing” hanging is the TXV valve, it controls how much liquid Freon is allowed into the HX to evaporate and get cold in that process. If the capillary line to it is kinked it’s not going to work at all. Look at it closely for such. Also it’s sensor must be tightly up against the inlet chilled water line so it can control the Freon flow correctly.

 

[Hickster]

The evaparator needs to be sealed as the chill water lines. It is a closed system having to do with the air seperator and or extractor. It bleeds the air out of the system so not to get air locked in the pump. This system is pretty cool and works good as long as it is a closed system. The VSD, variable speed drive, is sumtin I thought, could be added to correct the load. Mentioned will drop to 10% of the load at set up and bump time.

 

[MurderCat]

I guess you didn’t see all the pictures I posted on how I installed my drag size KC with HX bypass valve and drag valve and a1.2 gallon hopper tank and except for the insulated lines you’d never know it’s there? PM me a phone number and I’ll txt you LOTS of pictures including charge pressures with 134a

I saw your posts just was a bit confused how it all works with two way and three way valves together. - Sent your thread over earlier today as its very detailed step by step. I think it will help out quite a bit.

 

[Hickster]

Yepper, look forward to looking at them on Wed. Had medical problems today Friday and next week. Rays are loosing the World Series. Us. Will look at it on Wed and sea what we see. Remember closed cell is very im po tant/// no leaks.

 

[jgilj]

Yepper, look forward to looking at them on Wed. Had medical problems today Friday and next week. Rays are loosing the World Series. Us. Will look at it on Wed and sea what we see. Remember closed cell is very im po tant/// no leaks.

Got 2 meets you some day Hickster I think we could gets along !😂

 

[MurderCat]

The installer wants to leave the killer chiller in front of the A/C condenser for airflow and to keep hoses facing down per Joe's instructions @ Kincaid.



I sent pictures of two other cars, one with the chiller installed under the driver light and another where the new coolant box is located now, so that's off the table. Shop doesn't want to put it under the light since hoses will be oriented sideways. Thinking cutting into the crash beam is the next best option. Anyone have ideas? Should have more pictures of the custom coolant tank setup later tonight.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Per Kincaid hoses can be side ways as long as Freon lines are on the bottom which they are mounted like I mounted mine under the DS headlight and hopper tank under the PS headlight. With insulation on them they fit on those spots snug and tight and the insulation let’s them float from vibration. No hoses, valves, nothing seen except for the insulated hoses in the bay to the back of the super charger.

 

[MurderCat]

I think were starting to get somewhere. Very happy with this layout now.

We decided to install a 2.5-3 gal coolant reservoir in place of the secondary heat exchanger.

 

[Magnified]

That looks awesome.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

I think were starting to get somewhere. Very happy with this layout now.

We decided to install a 2.5-3 gal coolant reservoir in place of the secondary heat exchanger.
View attachment 28520

Now that’s more like it!! Persistence pays off!! Keep on them!!

 

[MurderCat]

Now that’s more like it!! Persistence pays off!! Keep on them!!

Hate being that guy telling them to re-do things but very picky with this car! Want everything done right. Hopefully install labor isn't too bad since they've never done a chiller before. Figuring 7-10 hours+A/C charging.

They just ordered the replacement Whipple parts this week after i spotted some things off in the second picture of chiller install which is odd..should have been done 6-8 weeks ago when i sent the email with everything listed out that needed to be done before it was finished being tuned. Probably have to pay $120 again in overnight shipping from Whipple since they're rushing to get the car done this week. Just like the last place that messed the whipple install up. De Ja Vu' .. at least this place seems to have a much higher level of craftsmanship despite lack of communication due to the owner being the only one dealing with customers. Can't say for sure though until the car is back in my hands for testing/fine comb through.

 

[MurderCat]

Anyone with Killer chiller or active chillers installed have coolant level low light on? Any fixes.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Anyone with Killer chiller or active chillers installed have coolant level low light on? Any fixes.

I don’t think there is a actual fluid level sensor, I believe the computer looks at pump impeller speed and amperage to determine if it’s pumping fluid or free spinning in air, like a dry running prevention algorithm. You may have a air pocket in the pump, try bleeding fluid at lowest point down by intercooler.

 

[Hickster]

That is where the air seperator and or eliminator comes int effect. Keeps the air locks from happening. The difference between the 2 way and 3 way valving system is, 2 way is either on or off. Constant or no flow. 3 way acts as a by pass as needed. It modulates as needed. Better system but more exspensive valve and need a bit of fittings. There are 2 ways to fit up a 3 way valve ,, mixing or diverting. Need to figure that out before installation. Also need to figure out unit off valve closed or open. Depends the liquad you are using. Inhimited glycol does not matter. Want freeze but mixed or water needs to be closed so it want slit the copper when frozen,, or bleed the system during winter time.